How to Plant and Care for Your Dahlia Tubers

Dahlia tubers - 1oh1.....

Your dahlia tubers are nearly on their way, and whether it’s your first time growing or you’ve been through a few bloom cycles before, this guide will walk you through what to expect—starting from the moment your box arrives.  There are many ways to manage the process, this is the way it's worked for me so it's really just my opinion.  I'm a never stop type of learner - and I will always encourage you to do the same.  As all of our climates and weather patterns are so vastly different my way may not be best for you.

Here's where I'm at, each tuber has been grown, lifted, divided, and packed with care here at Pod. I grow in raised no-dig beds using compost, aged manure, and a regenerative approach that focuses on soil health and long-term productivity.

Every tuber is hand-selected and labelled, with the goal of making your growing experience as rewarding as the blooms themselves.

What to Expect in Your Delivery

Each order includes:

• Individually packed tubers nestled in wood shavings (the same material used during cool storage)

• A full-colour label with the variety name, a bloom photo, and general growing information

• One tuber per bag—always with at least one visible eye
  
  

The tubers have been kept cool and dry in storage and are ready to plant when the time is right in your region.

Can’t Plant Right Away? Here's How to Store Them

If your soil isn’t quite ready or the weather hasn’t settled, your tubers will keep well for a few weeks with proper storage.

• Leave them in their original packaging with the wood shavings

• Store in a cool, dry space out of direct sunlight (a shed or cupboard is fine)

• Check every week or so to ensure no signs of rot or excessive drying

• Avoid refrigeration—too much moisture can damage the tubers

If you notice any small shoots developing, that’s perfectly normal. As long as the tuber remains firm and dry, you’re in good shape.

When to Plant (Regional Timing Guide)

Dahlias prefer warm soil and no chance of frost. Wait until your soil temperature reaches around 15°C and the risk of frost has passed. Here's a general guide by region:

• Queensland (warmer zones): Late August – mid September

• New South Wales & South Australia: Mid–late September – early October

• Victoria: Mid to late October

Later is better than early if you're unsure—planting into cold or wet soil can cause rot.

Garden Planting Step-by-Step

1. Choose a sunny spot – at least 6–8 hours of full sun daily.

2. Prepare your soil – free-draining is essential. I use compost-rich, no-dig beds, layering in organic matter, aged manure, and mulch to improve soil structure and retain moisture.

3. Dig a hole about 8–10 cm deep, lay the tuber on its side with the eye facing up.

4. Space each plant about 30–40 cm apart, depending on the variety’s final size.

5. Watering: If your soil has held recent rain and feels moist at planting depth, hold off watering until shoots appear. But if the ground is dry or dusty, water in lightly after planting—just enough to moisten the soil, not saturate it. In dry Australian conditions, tubers can dehydrate if left too long without moisture.

6. Stake early, especially for taller or dinner-plate varieties. It’s easier now than trying to support them later.

7. Feed and condition regularly. At Pod, I use a seasonal fertigation and foliar support routine:

   • Worm tea from my on-property worm farm, delivered through drip irrigation

   • Charlie Carp and Seasol as foliar conditioners prior to blooming, to support overall plant health and resilience

   • A balanced general fertiliser applied during active growth and bud formation to ensure strong stems and abundant blooms

This year, I’ll be adjusting my schedule in response to seasonal patterns and growing conditions, with the goal of extending the bloom window and improving both yield and vase life. I’ll share more about that in a follow-up post later in the season.

Planting in Pots or Containers

Dahlias can be grown in pots as long as the container is large enough and drains well.
Here’s how:

• Use a pot at least 30 cm wide and deep

• Choose a premium potting mix with compost or aged organic matter

• Position the tuber horizontally about 8 cm deep, eye up

• Place in a sunny, sheltered spot

• Water lightly after planting if the potting mix is dry—just enough to keep the environment slightly moist. Check regularly, especially in warm weather.

• Stake early. A tomato cage or circular frame works well for container-grown dahlias, offering structure without taking up too much space

Container-grown dahlias will need more frequent watering and feeding than those in the ground, particularly once they’re actively growing and forming buds.

Final Notes

Watching your first dahlia shoot break the surface is always a thrill—and the flowers that follow are worth every bit of effort. I’ve done my best to make the process clear and stress-free, and I hope this guide helps you feel confident as you get started.

A follow-up blog post will go live later in the season covering cuttings, pinching, and care once plants are up, along with a more detailed breakdown of what's worked for me in my fertilising program through the growing cycle to encourage stronger plants and always beautiful blooms.

As always - happy gardening

Roxanne